Attaching the Stringers to the Stems

With the stringers lashed, the next step is to attach the stringers to the stem.  This is done by trimming the stringers, then pegging and lashing them to the stems.

The first step is to cut all the cable ties except the ones on the last station molds and the ones on the gunwale.

Then, we trim the stringers.  This part didn't go as well as we had hoped.  The video that came with our Dream Catcher supplies shows a method where you trim the stringers to just past the stem, then use a discarded piece of stringer to mark the good stringer.  The problem with this is that the stringers are about 1/2".  So at 1/2", it's a perfect angle, but once you bend it into the stem, the angle is off.  This is (somewhat) easily fixed by using the blade of our microplane to make the fit better.  I'm still trying to think of a better way to do this, maybe using some sort of template that accounts for the change in angle when the stringers get bent.

Another problem that was a minor complication for us was that the stem will move a bit from side to side.  To counter this, I built a little jig to hold it in place.  The jig is just 3/4" ply with a slot cut out just wide enough for the stem.  We screwed it to the underside of the strongback.

After way more sanding, microplaning, etc, we got the stringers to lie reasonably flat against the stem.  Next we cable tied the two opposite stringers together to pull them in tight to the stem.  

We noticed that the top stringers weren't tight enough into the stem, so we used a clamp on them.  Then we drilled holes, being careful to keep the drill parallel to the ground.  Once the first hole was drilled, we applied glue to the peg and inserted it.  It was loose enough that it didn't have to be hammered in.  

We continued to drill and peg all the stringers in.

Once all the stringers are pegged, we lashed them to the stem.

The next step is to flip the canoe, insert the for and aft ribs, and start on the gunwales...

Lashing

The next stage of our canoe is the lashing.  I admin I was skeptical about if it would be strong enough, or if the ribs would move.  I originally though that we might need to do a few more wraps than shown in the instructions, but after we completed one rib, I was convinced.  The lashing holds the ribs in place.  It does allow for minor movements, but I think this is by design.

The method is to start at the keelson and move toward the gunwale.  Then repeat on the other side.

Stringers and ribs

The stringers are 1/2" square.  They go lengthways along the boat.

The stringers are zip tied to the station molds.

The ribs are about 1 1/4" and 1/4" thick.  They are bent and placed outside of the frame to dry.

Our steaming setup is a 3" galvanized pipe about 5' long.  We put it over a kettle and sealed it with a dish cloth.  It did manage to scratch up the kettle quite a bit.  

The steamer took about 20 minutes to fully heat up.  Once hot, the average time was about 5 minutes in the steamer for each rib.  For the two end ribs that have steep bends, we left them in the bender for the whole time (probably half an hour or more).  Typically you can't bend them enough to make contact with the keelson.  In this case, you put a block between the keelson and the rib.  However, our bending was so awesome that the end ribs rest right on the keelson.

The ribs are bent around the outside of the stringer and the ends are tucked in behind the gunwales.  This helps them keep their shape as they dry.  In some instances where the wood wouldn't stay down close to the stringers, we zip tied it.  You can see this in the photo on the two end ribs.  

Once the ribs had a chance to form and dry in place (about 20 minutes or so), we moved them to underneath the stringers where they will ultimately go.  Then we zip tied them in place.  The rest of the ribs on the boat have had this done.

Attaching the keelson and stems

The keelson is the main spine of the boat.  It's yellow cedar, and it's nearly 1" x 1"

Here we attach the keelson to the station molds.

These stems are cut out of 3/4" maple plywood.

For this version, we decided to glue the stems to the keelson.  Technically you should only have to lash it, but this felt more secure.

We did attach lashing, but mostly for ascetics.

Stuff!

The list!  

Sinew - this is what we use to lash the frame together.

Blocks - these get attached to the frame, and the seat posts get attached to these.

Piping - this allows us to create a nice finished edge where skin rises above the gunwales.

Double sided tape - for temporarily holding the skin in place.

Webbing - this is used to add a ridge along the 

Cable ties - used to temporarily hold the frame together

Copper pipe - these hold the seat rests in place

Needles for stitching and lashing

Brass screws

Pegs for pegging the stringers and gunwales to the stem

Brass Nails to nail the gunwales to the ribs.  It's better than lashing because it doesn't create any raised surfaces

Concrete screws

The Japanese pull saw, used to trim the ribs, stringers, etc.

The wood!

Not shown, the precut and stained stems.

Building the Strongback

Day 1

The plan:

Helene and Tyson are building a canoe!  The general plan is:

1. build the strongback
2. attach the keelson
3. attach the stems
4. attach the stringers
5. attach the ribs
6. skin the frame
7. build the floor
8. build the breasthook

First, we plotted two copies of the 2 person Big Lassie canoe plans that we purchased from Dream Weaver Canoes.  Once that was done, we taped the two sides together to make a single patter for each piece.

Then we traced the patterns onto 3/8 rough plywood, being sure to mark the holes as well.  There are nine station molds in total that get mounted to the strongback

Each station mold was then cut out with a jigsaw.

Then we attach the station molds to the strongback.  Ours is 16', but probably just over 12' would be enough.  We'll likely have to cut the strongback down once we want to attach the stems.

Testing the fit of station mold #1

Making sure it's going to line up in the centre

We mount the station molds to the strongback by first screwing the molds to a 6" piece of 2x2, ensuring that the mold will lie flat against the strongback.  Then we screw the 2x2 to the strongback.  Yes, the screws are a bit long.

And the finished product!